Cambiare tasto accensione iphone 5 s

Contents:
  • Introduzione
  • iPhone 5 e tasto accensione rotto: Apple offre sostituzione gratuita
  • Riparazione iphone 5 - Tasto Power On / Off Standby
  • Beh, dipende tutto dallo stato della garanzia. Per ricevere maggiori informazioni dai uno sguardo a questa pagina Internet dedicata. Se non hai assicurato il tuo device, puoi richiederne, a pagamento, la sostituzione con un terminale ricondizionato. Purtroppo non prevede copertura contro i danni accidentali, come le cadute che possono causare il danneggiamento del tasto Power. Se hai bisogno di verificare la garanzia del tuo iPhone, segui le indicazioni contenute nel mio tutorial su come verificare garanzia iPhone.

    Please click here if you are not redirected within a few seconds. Questo sito contribuisce alla audience di. Salvatore Aranzulla Day 26 ottobre a Milano. Indice Spegnere iPhone senza tasto con la funzione Spegni Spegnere iPhone senza tasto con AssistiveTouch Soluzioni alternative Riparare o sostituire un iPhone con i tasti rotti Spegnere iPhone senza tasto con la funzione Spegni Innanzitutto cerchiamo di comprendere in che modo bisogna procedere per poter spegnere il melafonino sfruttando la funzione apposita annessa alle impostazioni del dispositivo.

    Articolo bloccato Per leggere l'articolo, abilita Javascript o disabilita il tuo Adblock. Leggi le istruzioni per sbloccare l'articolo. Bought a new battery and charged overnight Now here's an issue that would seem to apply to many users doing this repair: When I dropped my iPhone, the screen went almost completely dark, midnight blue, actually. I can use the power button at the top of the phone to turn the display on and off, but I can't get the phone to power off.

    Seems the only way to do it is to wait until the battery is exhausted. That way if you drop a screw it won't go flying off the table. Ok, at the end of the repair, I tried to use the new pentalobe screws that came with ifixit replacement battery but they did not seem to fit. So, reverted to the original pentalobe screws for the final step to close up the phone. Beside that, everything went smooth.

    I also skipped the steps about detaching the frontpanel seems not necessary if only replacing the battery. Weirdly I had to use two different screw attachments to remove the pentalobe screws so possible they use different screw heads for each one sometimes. I prossimi due passi vi mostreranno come usare l'iSclack, uno strumento per aprire in maniera sicura l'iPhone 5, che raccomandiamo a chiunque voglia fare più di una riparazione. Se non state usando iSclack, saltate al passaggio 5.

    Riaprire i manici per chiudere la pinza iSclack. Piazzare bene le ventose e premetele bene sul fronte e sul retro dell'iPhone. The iSclack is a marvel. I've had it in my toolkit for a while but this was its first use. I recommend this tool. Tenere bene fermo l'iPhone con una mano mentre con l'altra richiudere il manico dell'iSclack per separare le due ventose staccando in questo modo il pannello sul retro.

    L'iSclack è fatto apposta per aprire l'iPhone, giusto separarando i pezzi, senza danneggiare il cavo del pulsante Home. Step 4 is a bit dangerous, as the Display is pulled out very fast and depending on the position, the suction cups are placed at it could stress the cabels connecting display and mainboard.

    So, please, hold the phone with finger and thumb at the top, to avoid the display is pulled out to fast. I sure wish they did a better job showing in the video how hard it is to take of the front screen without the iSclack tool! Putting it down above the home button just wasn't working at all Especially when the screen is cracked badly as the suction cup loses suction due to air leaking through the cracks.

    In this case, use tape over the screen to create a smooth surface. Nel caso si stia cercando di aprire un iPhone con lo schermo danneggiato, porre ordinatamente un paio di strisce nastro adesivo sul vetro. Questo darà alle ventose una superfice da afferrare e minimizzera lo spargimento di vetro rotto. I found it was easier to start opening from the top left of the display and working straight down towards the home button as there are no clips in this particular area. I realize there are cables on the right side right next to the area, however, this way requires less force as a starting point.

    Let me know what you think. This part was the most frustrating part of the guide, granted I didn't do the whole thing. I was expecting to slip the plastic separator tool in-between the case and the display.

    Power, Volume & Silent Button Repair - iPhone 5 How to Tutorial

    This did not happen and I ate away at the tool in the process. For me after much pushing on the top edge of the case and pulling the screen away it released all of a sudden. I managed to make a dead stop at 90 degrees, but felt like I almost ripped off the ribbon cables I didn't. No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the screen to separate far enough to where the pry tool could get it.

    Reading through some of the other comments, I followed 2 other people's advice to work the bottom left corner above the headphone input and then use a pushpin at the same time. I made a couple of hard to see marks in the corner but was finally able to get the screen off. I also did NOT take off the connectors to the screen and skipped the next few steps all the way down to step Looks like a lot of people damaged their phones that disconnected the top screen. I'd recommend to use packaging tape to attach the upper edge of the display to the back of the phone so you won't rip off the ribbon cables if the display suddenly comes loose.

    My battery needed replacement because the battery had swollen and was warping the glass. Looking at it from the side it looks like gasket that was partly sticking to glass and partly to the case. This is actually part of the glass frame and you need to make sure to separate it from the case not the glass. I did it wrong and ended up removing the glass but there was a metal case covering the inside. I eventually got the rest of the top off but now I'll have replace it all because I can't find a good way to glue the glass to plastic. I initially had trouble, but focusing on the area of the faceplate right above the headphone jack worked for me.

    There's a slight divot that allows you to slip in the prying tool earlier than in other places around the faceplate. Once I got the prying tool in there, I was able to pop out the bottom, and then continue up the sides. The top of the screen is attached to delicate cables inside the phone! Pull up carefully and keep a hand on the top of the screen so it doesn't pop up. My iPhone 5 only had a weak battery. Now it has a cracked glass panel. Suction cup is strong - so strong the glass breaks before the suction cup lets go. Apparently some of the tolerances in Apple's design occasionally add up to make a front panel assembly that refuses to let go.

    The suction cup with the blue plastic handle that came with the kit did not work, but I still had the cup with the silver ring that came with an iPad repair kit and it worked nicely. Also, I found that the guitar style picks that came with the iPad kit worked best for getting the screen started. Top center worked for me best success after 2nd attempt. Near the home button I failed constantly I have the suction cup with the blue handle.


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    I also found that a larger suction cup from a Garmin GPS which spanned the width of the glass screen worked better than the provided one. Tenendo fermo l'iPhone con una mano tirate verso l'alto la ventosa per separare leggermente il pannello frontale dal corpo principale del telefono. Prendi il tuo tempo e applica una forza ferma e costante. Il pannello anteriore dell' iPhone 5 é molto più stretto di quello degli altri telefoni. Con una leva di plastica, forzare gentilmente il telefono verso il basso, tirando via la ventosa con il pannello.

    Ci sono molte clip che fissano il pannello frontale al corpo del cellulare, quindi potrebbe essere necessario un uso contemporaneo della ventosa e della leva di plastica per liberare il pannello. Suction cup didn't work for me. I tried for half hour with my nerd biceps. In the end, I inserted an xacto blade below the home button to create a gap big enough for me to put in a guitar pick and finally able to pry it open. In the process I scratched the frame so you have to be very careful if you decide to take this approach.

    The glass on my phone was completely destroyed, making the suction cup entirely useless. I was pretty close to giving up when i tried putting a strip of clear packing tape on the screen and squishing out all the bubbles. Put the suction cup on this and it worked perfectly.

    Used a suction cup from my Garmin Navi.

    iPhone 5: programma di sostituzione gratuita tasto standby/accensione

    The one you use to stick it to your windshield. It has a nice plastic "handle" and made things a lot easier Go easy on this step. While holding down on the lower sides of the iPhone, I found inserting the plastic separator just to the right of the audio jack while gently applying pressure down and back from the edge popped the bottom of the display assembly up. Keep in mind to do this while pulling back on the suction cup ring, like the guide says constant, but gentle force at the same time. Another note is to have the suction cup ring vertical to align with the length of the display, that made the process much easier.

    I was having trouble getting the thing to budge, but the moment I put the plastic tool near the audio jack, the screen immediately popped up. This should be in the guide. The front panel is actually recessed a bit here making it much easier to get a tool in at this point. No way I would have opened it without this tip. After struggling for half an hour and nearly giving up, I was able to easily lift up the screen once I tried to wedge it near the headphone jack! I've been using a metal flat opening tool along with the suction cup to pop these bad boys open - remember the tape on the screen trick if you have a smashed screen - so the suction cup can grip and stops the glass going everywhere!

    Definitely a difficult step. Make sure not to pry the screen from framing. Also, I kept pushing the power button on while attempting separate the frame. Keep your fingers clear from the top of the phone because having it turn on while the casing is popped is a little nerve racking! I had trouble with this step too, since I had to apply quite a lot of force on the suction cup when pulling up on the screen while holding down on the frame with my fingernails. Eventually it popped free, but came almost to 90 degrees before I was able to stop it.

    No damage, but nerve-wracking, and if there was a better technique, it would be good to figure it out and share the information here. I overdid it and, though the repair was successful, there's now a bit of play when pressing on the top right quadrant of the screen. When i was reassembling, the screen broke form the pressure. I recommend putting the screen towards your working surface and press your phone downwards.

    That way your screen is always straight. Once there is a gap between the screen and the frame, insert the plastic opening tools and move it around the screen. But don't use it for top area near to power button as there is a location for flexible ribbon cable. Suction cup is very difficult with a cracked screen. Stick something in the ear jack and carefully push it and the edge of the screen will pop up. Use the plastic stick to open it. I had trouble opening the screen due to a warped suction cup that was bent up at one spot and also due to my cracked screen.

    I had some command strips, but I think any double-sided tape could work. I pulled-up on the suction cup, gradually increasing force. Instead of just opening a gap to get the plastic prying tool into, the whole thing gave way at once. This damaged the connection between the display assembly and the rest of the iPhone. Even better, invest in the "iSclack".

    In my case, it would have saved me about fifty bucks and three days without a functional iPhone. I may have been able to replace only the cables, but I wasn't sure how extensive the damage was and I was done messing around with it. I replaced the whole display assembly, and now it works just fine. Overall, it was a good experience. This is very difficult, you have to use much more strength than it appears and it's very easy to rip out the connector cords.

    Mine did not rip, thankfully. Upon replacing the screen, I had to do this 3 times, I would not recommend putting the screws back in but turning on the phone and testing all screens before putting the panel back. When I finally managed to ensure all displays were working, I was pushing the screen back in and cracked the glass just below the home button. This part is very sensitive as it is the thinnest portion of the glass so be careful and ensure you push from the top and go all the way around.

    I also had to do this twice because after cracking the glass on the first try, I also realised the top was not fully pushed back. We highly recommend using the iSclack tool for opening the phone up. It simply pops it up with very little effort, and you won't risk damaging your screen or device. My older phone had a swollen battery, it turns out it had distorted the display assembly enough that the suction cup only separated the screen from the display assembly. I was in no mood to pay for the special tool and wait for it.

    Took the "right of headphone jack" suggestion and pushed down vertically at the edge of the frame with a "ice pick" sharp tool, " I had two of them. Who cares if you scratch the frame a little, I usually have my phone in a protective case anyhow. I kept working with this until the corner was up, and then the rest of the display was loose without any further work. My phone is in pristine condition for a 5 year old phone, I have no cracks to speak of on the glass and the suction cup that ifixit sent me doesn't stick to the glass.

    Holding the other side top of the phone down with another hand is extremely important. Plenty of people have damaged their screens by pulling the panel right off, ripping all the cables. I made a series of gentle pulls and the front panel came up without problems. The opening started to appear next to the audio jack, as other people indicated. Then, I used the pry that came with the kit and the panel opened easily. Upon reassembly, I cracked the glass at this step. The top of the screen seemed to have too play in it and on my phone—I suspect from right side brackets that may have been damaged already.

    Was nearly finished and applied too much pressure? I pulled and pulled on the suction cup with no results then read the comments! Should have saved the cost of tools. They were very pretty and well packaged though! Good fortune to all that succeeded. And now, after putting it back, the screen is not working. What am I supposed to do?

    I dont have any other phone in hand and I need to repair it immediately. Could they have fallen out previously because my screen was bulging out from the case? Or did I miss them somewhere? I managed to separate the front panel from the body, but there is yet another metallic looking panel on the body. The back of the panel still attached to the front part is mirror shiny on the back of that panel. Unfortunately you only separated part of the display panel, try to reseat the display and open it again, paying special attention to step 3 which shows you where you should be prying to get those clips on the metal rail out of the phone body.

    Non provare a rimuovere completamente il pannello dal telefono poiché ci sono ancora diversi fasci di cavi attacati in cima all'iPhone. Una volta che le clip sono state rimosse ai lati e alla base del cellulare sollevare la parte bassa del pannello frontale e staccarla dal corpo dell'iPhone. Sollevare lentamente il pannello finché si sarà formato un angolo di 90 gradi fra esso ed il corpo principale.

    When reinserting the screen, be sure to start from the top and insert the plastic tabs on the screen into the case before advancing the rest of the screen into place, finishing at the bottom. The screen will snap into place once lined up to complete the insertion. This is actually very important, I was having trouble getting the front panel to go on by starting at the top. I started from the bottom instead and the bottom ended up secure, but not the top. I then tried to take the front panel back off, but because the top portion was already loose the force required to pull off the bottom led to one of the ribbon cables at the top of phone breaking.

    When reattaching the screen, please start from the top. BEFORE you try to push the bottom of the screen down and snap it in, use some pressure from the bottom edge to push the screen towards the top of the phone. I suggest that by the time you get to the middle of the phone starting from the top , you do this. It will allow for getting the clips at the bottom by the sync cable clipped in and will sit nicely and allow for you to use overall pressure to make sure the whole screen is secured. I didn't do this and I damaged the seal on the right side of the phone and almost separated my screen from the digitizer trying to reseparate it to reattach the screen.

    Be very carefull to follow these steps I listed. If you do this while reattaching the screen, you'll have no problem. I also agree with it being not necessary to remove the complete front panel. I just kept it attached and kept it at an angle as I pulled with gentle, continuous force at a 45 degree angle as suggested on the battery pull tab.

    It eventually came loose, I set the new battery in and everything works perfectly. That's the way I did it too. I put a piece of packing tape from the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back. That kept me from putting any pressure on the ribbon cable should the phone slip and the whole screen try to lift away from the backing. Be careful taking the front panel off. I tried to pull it very careful but it ripped. One of the cables was damaged but luckily, it was the cable that goes out with the old front panel.

    It also ripped 4. I was lucky and recovered it from the floor. While trying to open the phone, I was must've tried a little too much and the screen came off in one shot, and it damaged the ribbon cables. Hello guys, I would like to first thank iFixit for these amazing repair guides they have always worked for me!

    When reassembling the phone make sure to put the screen from top to bottom, but be aware there are 2 small flaps on the top left side of the screen you can notice them using another iphone as a flashlight if you don't put these 2 flaps first then you are going to have a little space between the top part of the screen and the aluminum frame , at least this happened to me and then I inspected the screen using a flashlight and then I found these 2 tiny flaps behind the screen near the top left corner.

    Was it just me or did anyone else discover a ribbon cable or something like it on the bottom end of the phone under the home button? It kept me from opening the front panel more than 30 degrees or so, making the replacement impossible. It looks like you might actually have an iPhone 5s, that is probably the Touch ID cable, check out the iPhone 5s Display Assembly replacement here! What the heck only the top part of the lcd came off, NOT together with the shield plate.

    I used the stupid islack opener but only the very top layer came up. I don't see the battery or anything underneath because the shield plate is still in there. I can't even put it back closed and resuction it open because the shield plate is solidly stuck in and there is a cable at the top not settling properly. I have an open lcd top part of this phone.

    Hi Gabrielle, sorry you're having trouble! This frame step was meant to show you how to avoid that issue, however, you should be able to use it to pry up the frame and shield plate. You'll need to carefully pry the frame itself up. Insert a thin prying tool between the black or white plastic display frame, and the metal phone case, to lift the frame assembly out of the phone body.

    If you continue to have trouble, try posting a question in our forum for faster feedback! Hello, I've changed the earphone piece on my iPhone5 following this guide but I've skipped from step 9 directly to step 17 without problem, just shutting down first. Once opened I've tied the iPhone's body vertically to a small box with an elastic ring, the display assembly resting horizontal at some 90 degrees allows enough place to unscrew and replace the earpiece.

    My biggest problem is my eyesight. Had to wear glasses and use a magnifying glass. Battery took about 20 minutes. Re-installing the cover for the screen ribbons was the toughest for me. If you cant see I found the suction cup to be very effective in removing the front glass. Didn't take that much force to start to see the glass separate from the frame. It's a lot easier if you have a fingernail you can insert when you start to see the glass separate from the frame so that you can let go of the suction cup ring and grab a spudger to pry down one side and then the other.

    When reassembling, be sure to work from the top down to get the screen display in place. There are three hooks at the top that need to be seated otherwise they will bend and prevent the top from popping in flush. Otherwise, great instructions, thanks Ifixit,new iPhone battery is wonderful. Questa vite tende a non farsi attrarre da cacciaviti magnetici. Fate attenzione a non perderla durante la rimozione. Assicurarsi di rimetterla al posto giusto: Anyone have any idea why the 1. Just wondering why this screw seems to be made of aluminum, its the first screw of its kind as far as iphones go.

    I'd recommend if they made that clearer in the guide, luckily I put them back in right, its the one with the little bit of blue on it if i recall that isn't magnetic. I just finished this process using the battery replacement kit from ifixit and it went easily. I did NOT remove the entire screen but rather just had someone hold it at less than a 90 degree angle until I got the battery out. I found it took a while to slowly pry the battery out. Take your time and alternate between gently using the plastic tool and pulling on the plastic pull tab that says "for authorized use only" or something like that.

    It was MUCH easier than disconnecting the entire screen for the process. Rule 1 on electronics repair methodology: I'd disconnect the battery before touching anything else, a slip of the screwdriver or a loose screw could cause a fatal short circuit. It's no need to remove front panel to change battery. I just skip to Step 10 and successfully changed battery, and it works well.

    I skipped steps Mon téléphone a pris l'humidité et présente un fond d'écran d'aspect granuleux. Du coup l'éclairage n'est plus uniforme, nuisible pour une bonne lecture de l'écran. J'ai démonté l'écran, une pellicule grasse et collante entre le LCD et la plaque métallique. J'ai nettoyé à l'alcool. Tout remonter avec la crainte que le téléphone ne fonctionne plus.

    Le téléphone s'est rallumé, tout fonctionne normalement mais j'ai toujours ses traces sur le fond d'écran. Il faut le changer! This makes the plate kind of springy, and my screwdirver slipped, and the screw popped up, spun in the air, fell between my legs, bounced off my padded chair, and clattered around on the floor. I searched for an hour, and could not locate it. This being the case, I WAS able to provide a substitute fron a bag of iphone 4 screws, and my compass calibrated flawlessly upon power-up.

    Be warned, the 1. I haven't been able to get it out yet already tried rubber band trick and a few others and am on the verge of giving up. The 00 screwdriver that comes with the set did not do a very good job of catching. Were you ever able to get it out? Mine seemed stripped from the get go, rendering my attempt to troubleshoot my blank screen fruitless. Rubber band, glue, flat-head all did not work for me. Buying a soldering iron tomorrow to try that. I did the repair without disconnecting the screen.

    I skipped down to step 13 and carefully held the screen while removing the battery. Adds a small element difficulty, but helps prevent all the issues others are having when reconnecting the screen. Install the two magnetized screws first. They are easy because the magnetized screws will stick to then end of the screwdriver. They will hold the cable bracket in place. Place the third, non-magnetized, screw on the center of the cable bracket.

    Take a toothpick and nudge the screw toward the screw hole. The threaded part of the screw the shaft has enough weight that it will fall into the hole, and the head of the screw will be pointed upward. You will then be able to use the screwdriver. Put a piece of tape on the table sticky side up. Set the screw on the tape head down. The tape trick works well. Another way is to dip the screwdriver in alcohol isopropanol, do NOT use water and put the screw on its tip. It will be held there until the liquid is evaporated, which should be sufficient to put it in place.

    When putting it back together, I replugged in all three of the ribbon cables and powered on the phone to test before putting everything back together. All was OK except for the Home button, it had no effect when pressed. I ended up unplugging and replugging the 3 ribbon cables a few times and retrying.

    I then cleaned the connectors using a can of compressed air, screwed the little silver cover back on and snapped the whole phone back together, hoping everything would be fine. I don't know if the problem was a dirty connector, or if you need to close the phone to make the home button work again. I recommend wiping the plastic prying tool after lifting the screen off, it gets dirty from the gunk build up and some of that could eventually fall inside the phone.

    My battery was really stuck, so much that the plastic tab broke when pulling. I followed someones advice to heat the back of the phone with a hair dryer, still wasn't super easy but I managed to get the battery out, only deforming it slightly. The contacts for the home button are on the phone base so the screen needs to be in place for the button to work.. Step are totally unnecessary unless you need to replace a broken screen. All you need is to keep the front panel in a vertical position once the front is open. The battery can be removed without taken out the 3 connectors which by the way the screws are very very tiny and difficult to put back.

    These are unnecessary steps. Might be a little easier to pry the battery out with the display completely off, but not enough to make it worthwhile IMHO. I have a small set and can't get one of these out. The instructions say a 1. So as long as you have a you should be set! Invest in and use some colored Sharpie Pens I color the tops of the screws orange and red etc. Then when I go to put them back in there's no doubt as to which screw is the correct size. Maybe a small amount of loctite. I noticed the P2 screws holding the display down had a small amount on my iPhone 5.

    I, too, do not see the need to remove the LCD display at all; except, when one is replacing a broken display. The battery is ready for replacement once you had removed its bracket. I found that it wasn't at all necessary to remove the front glass. I did need to use a hair dryer to soften the glue holding the battery, but I simply laid the phone down on the face glass and blew the hot dryer on the back for a couple of minutes at almost point blank range. Then I simply held the phone open with one hand, making sure the front glass never went back more than about 80 degrees no need to stretch it all the way to 90 degrees , and used my other hand to work the spudger around the battery, making sure not to touch any delicate electronics in the area.

    The top right corner gave away first and then I worked it down from there and the battery came out pretty easily. The trick is to use the hair dryer for a few minutes beyond the phone being too hot to hold in your hand! The battery of my iPhone 5 was working well but started to inflate pushing the front panel assembly out from the case. Replacing is faster and easier than on iPhone 5s. Thanks to iFixit for this guides and you guys for your comments. As other people already indicated, steps 13 to 16 are not needed and risky. I asked another person to hold the front panel at 70 degrees while changing the battery.

    Per assicurare un'installazione corretta, assicuratevi di attaccare i piccoli uncini del supporto, sotto e poi piu in basso verso l'esterno del telefono. My iPhone 5 model don't has this bracket and replacing the earpiece don't fix my problem don't hear anyone. You might check that front camera flex cable. Great Guide, Any idea what else could be wrong if Ive replaced the screen with a working 1 and the phone still has no display?

    When you reverse step 7, make sure you clip the little hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone. If you don't, the phone won't snap back together properly. I've misplaced this metal plate AND the three screws and two pentalobe screws. I think my wife threw out the ziplock I had them in. Any chance you can tell me where to get them?

    Don't forget to clip this in flush, my phone couldn't get a cell signal when it was slightly out-of-place. Remember to put this plate back such that it's sitting evenly. The side towards the battery some times tends to stick up a bit, this in turn will put pressure on the backplate of the screen.

    Open up the phone, remove that retention plate and put it back such that it sits properly! Opened my iPhone 5 etc. When reassembling, I notice the screen doesn't stay clipped into the back tray and is raised a couple of mils.

    Introduzione

    I really wonder about the wisdom, and risk, of removing this upper plate in step 14 - unless I missed it, those three cables are NOT connected to the battery in anyway - and the chances for stuffing up said cables re-assembly are moderate to high! Much less stress regarding the upper bracket and the three cables while only a bit more stress over releasing the battery from its sticky grip! Anywho, I might have to stand corrected - but next time I'll go for this abreviated method. Just carefully remove the battery and insert the new one.

    Make sure to read all the comments before doing each step even when you r reassembling. I confirm the previous post! I think that lots of problem may occur when you reassemble the front panel cables. I also made the mistake of trying to remove the cable bracket. Once again I had to resort to another screwdriver since the included in the battery kit did not work on these.

    Can I leave the bracket out? Does it have any shielding or antenna function? I agree, it is not necessary to remove this cover or the cables underneath. I had the battery changed in less than 10 minutes. Durante il riassemblaggio del cellulare, il cavo LCD potrebbe staccarsi dal connettore. Questo potrebbe far apparire delle linee bianche o semplicemente niente quando il telefono sarà riacceso. Il modo migliore per creare un ciclo di alimentazione nel telefono è staccando e riattacando la batteria. The part itfixit sent only has two cables: And the guide is great!

    After replacing the screen I was presented with a no image screen but backlight was ok , so I refited the shartered one, same issue, no image, but backlight. Be very careful here, at this point the phone power is live!

    iPhone 5 e tasto accensione rotto: Apple offre sostituzione gratuita

    This is a troublesome step, since the LCD connector is particularly difficult to reconnect, and know that you've gotten it on. And thanks to the note claiming that if it's disconnected, if you might just get a black screen, you're left with having to disassemble the entire unit again, without knowing if it's powered off since you presumably tried to power on. I had this problem and disassembled and reassembled the entire phone, only to have the problem again.

    On the second try, I plugged the phone into power, and after a little bit, got the dead battery screen showing. So the problem was that the battery was discharged, not that I'd biffed the LCD connector. The hint to disconnect the battery was very useful for my successful repair. After rebooting the phone everything was working just fine. Take a good look at that camera loosely sitting there.

    It is possible that it will be slightly offset when shutting the assembly back into place. This causes it to not properly focus on closeups. If you don't move it around you will probably be okay. Also, look at the display assembly, it has three small locking tabs that can bend easily if not pushed in at the right angle into the iPhone frame. Be careful not to be too forceful. I am having issues removing the white lines on my screen. I made sure to connect the digitiizer connector was seated all the way and I also power cycled my phone several times. Anyone else having this issue?

    When I was reassembling this the front facing camera cable was a bit longer than the previous one. I had to kink the ribbon cable a bit to get the connection to line up. Everything seems to be working but I wanted to note that the part might be slightly off spec. I am very satisfied with the replacement display assembly including FaceTime camera and Home button iFixit sent. It arrived a day early, fit perfectly, and has fixed the color banding, cracked screen, and scratched edges very well.

    In addition, the home button now has a much crisper "click" to it, more like the new MacBook's keys vs those of an older MacBook Pro. This step is not needed to remove the battery and complicates the process by having to reconnect the sensors. When I started the phone again, there was a grid pattern and touch was not working consistently.

    It turns out there were two separate problems. I had this problem too not the oil though. When I first restarted the phone, I had white crosses over the display, and the digitiser didn't work. Hope this info helps others. In the image you can see the camera has lifted out a bit. Mine did this too, because the old screen had levered it out. To push the camera back into position you need to insert a fine tool behind a small metal spring contact because it catches on the camera's casing otherwise.

    This little spring is to the left of the metal case, between the camera and ribbon. Pls confirm if the three photos in Step 15 only show removal of 2 of the 3 connectors mentioned in the instruction and colored bullets. I could not tell which was the third one to remove in the three photos. So I keep getting the "white lines on the LCD" bit with no resolution. I've tried reconnecting the connector like 6 times and power cycling and I get the exact same thing every time?

    Is it possible that the replacement screen has an issue? May I ask what the 4th little connector is that comes from under your battery and connects to the board mine came undone during repair and won't go back in. Watch the soft pad between the rear camera enclosing and the top side of the frame, especially when reassembling.

    After replacing the battery, my camera pictures gradually showed lots of dust spots. I opened the device again and discovered that the pad had been displaced. However, I am not fully sure if that is the reason for the spots. On reinstall, I can't get the connectors to line up and the replacement screen has 3 connectors where as my busted screen had only 2. The cables on the replacement screen are too short? Is that even possible? Removing the screen cables causes more problems- you may end up with white squares on the top of the screen which seem to expand over time.

    Also it is very easy to bend little metal legs on the socket when prying the connector. It is very important to make sure the cables are fully seated. When I finish assembling the phone I too had a vertical white stripe on the display. I disassembled the phone and reconnected the cables very carefully, and also made sure the shield was properly seated. When I turned the phone back on I found a very faint white line, but after doing a power cycle it disappeared to my great relief.

    Anyone else have this problem? Also, when the battery was too low and before the display produced vertical lines the display showed half of a low battery symbol:. On reinstalling the front panel assembly, I had a difficult time lining up the digitizer cable.

    After struggling with it for a while, I noticed that the plastic shoulders of the small mounting bracket at the ends of the pins had become rounded over. After cleaning these up with a razor blade, everything slid together perfectly. Thanks so much for these guides and all the helpful comments! I have done all these operations 6 times to get back a good displaying. The last was the last: I clicked OK but nothing more. Still black and quiet. I found the part who was deffective: My display was not turning on and my home button was not working I verified this by trying to activate siri which didn't work.

    When I replaced the display assembly everything works except for the home button. Since this assembly comes with the button and the ribbon cable, I'm not sure what else can be wrong. I checked the contacts on the phone and I see the little copper 'pins' sticking out. I can't tell if they are making contact since the display has to be closed, but it appears they are lined up correctly. Does anyone have any suggestions or ways to test the contact pins? Could the home button on my replacement be defective? I've already emailed support, but just curious if anyone has any suggestions I could try while waiting to hear back from them.

    I can now back up my phone and can probably deal with a broken home button if I need to. I'm having issues where the screen jumps around when you get a finger near it. I'm reading it might be grounding but no idea where any tape could be applied. Replaced the screen twice thinking it was a bad part. Now, I just don't know. My front camera does not work. I took apart and ensured the connection several, several , several times Tira la linguetta sporgente in plastica trasparente per staccare la batteria dall'adesivo che la fissa alla iPhone.

    Se hai problemi nello staccare la batteria, usa un iOpener o un asciugacapelli per riscaldare il case posteriore dell'iPhone e ammorbidire l'adesivo. Se la linguetta si rompe prima di aver liberato la batteria, segui i passi successivi. The Guide misses the Point, where the Battery is disconnected, between steps 12 and 13 German version.

    You will see two little white gums strips with black tap on bottom. You have to pull up those two strip so battery will come out very easily. After struggling for awhile, I followed the hair-dryer tip and prying in the empty space on the case side of the battery just below the volume buttons as suggested in one of tips in step Don't understand the advice in the video about the only safe places to pry.


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    They completely contradict step 19! Agreed on the note about the contradiction. Didn't understand that either, but makes more sense to pry along the outside of the case where you're less likely to damage any internal components. That tab broke pretty easy on me. Seems like I am taking a lot apart to get to the lightning connector.

    I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! I was very surprised by how much heat I needed to apply to loosen the glue. I used a blow dryer and then heated up a rice-filled pillow-thing I use for sore muscles. I put that inside a plastic bag to avoid the moisture and pried while phone sat on that. It was hotter than I would normally make it for muscles! But that did the trick. Still had to pry pretty hard and it finally let go with a bit of a snap. I just pried with a spudger at the open space along the left side of the battery, about mid-way up.

    I found this step to be the hardest part of the repair. A hair dryer on the back of the phone worked best.

    Riparazione iphone 5 - Tasto Power On / Off Standby

    I broke the plastic tab right away and then used the black spudger along the outside to gently pry, stopping repeatedly to reheat the back of the phone. The battery finally released with a cracking sound. When I repeated this process on my second iPhone, I used more heat and worked more slowly and had better results — in fact the plastic tab didn't even break. This is a great guide; thank you ifixit! Use heat right from the beginning.

    I used a hair dryer or heat gun. Heat the body of the phone under the battery for 2 -3 minutes. Then carefully and steadily pull back on the tab. Apply consistent even force. The battery will pop out to the left and the tab that you pulled on should stay with the phone for next time. Se si rompe la linguetta e la batteria rimane attaccata al case posteriore, prepara un iOpener oppure usa un asciugacapelli per riscaldare il case posteriore direttamente sotto la batteria. Usa l'attrezzo di plastica per far leva dolcemente sulla batteria ma solo sul bordo esterno del telefono.

    Tira con delicatezza e in modo costante per evitare di deformare la batteria. Non far leva sulla parte alta della batteria, perché rischieresti di strappare i cavi di controllo del volume. Just wanted to add to these comments, the clear plastic tab says Authorized Service Provider Only on it is the way to go. You will want to pull with a constant force, as the adhesive is very strong, but it starts fairly easily, and comes up evenly-- you'll be able to see the glue releasing as you pull.

    Depending on exactly where your battery is glued, you will or you won't have enough room for the plastic opening tool. I didn't and had to leverage off the other side. Unlike the front cover which required surprisingly little force to remove it almost ripped the flex cords joining the front and the back , the battery required superhuman strength to remove, destroying the two spodgers parts yet to be found they flew off with such force and deforming the battery which personally I would have no use for reusing in any case.

    Reading other comments of how applying too much force caused breaking of components I was too timid and the battery removal process was very time consuming. I recommend watching the video in the battery replacement guide. I was able to see how much force was being applied to remove the battery. I found that the opposite end of the plastic removal tool was bitting into my hand, which was more sensitive to the required pressure than that applied to the components.

    The adhesive was quite strong and I used the point end of a spudger to gradually pry up the battery where it was most stuck at the bottom right. As useful as the comment about using the plastic tab was, mine was slightly cut by the edge of a flat cable, it split and the tab came off, making prying the battery necessary. Being mindful of the balance of force is what makes the removal successful.

    I can confirm with con mar 4. The adhesive was pretty firmly holding my battery down. So I used a metal screwdriver to help leverage the battery out from the top of the battery. Not knowing that the ribbon for the volume button and switch from the left side of the phone were under there. I severed the ribbon and now those buttons don't work anymore. But I was able to replace the battery and everything else works fine. I just have to learn how to live without those buttons anymore There is nothing you can really hurt on the left middle side either so I recommend this way if your plastic tab does not work to pull the battery up.

    I couldn't pull the battery out after pulling on that tab for over 10 minutes. I used a knife on the left side where it seemed nothing was and luckily the battery slid right out no problem. Try heating the phone at the back where the battery is with a heat gun or hair dryer what I used and then pull the tab, and if you still can't get the battery to start coming of give it a little nudge with a prying tool at the top.

    The battery was really glued down tight, and pulling the plastic tab eventually ripped the tab off and I could no longer use it. After 15 minutes of gently lifting with the plastic opening tool and getting nowhere, I followed the suggestion about using a hair dryer to soften the glue. I blew heat on the back of the phone where the battery is for about 30 seconds, and then used the plastic tool on the side of the phone with the volume buttons, and it lifted out with very little resistance.

    I want to stress that it was not a ton of heat--I held the phone in my hand while using the hair dryer, and it was hot on my hand but never so hot that it burned me. The point isn't to cook the phone, just to warm up the glue so it gives a little. Well, the battery was really giving me problems when trying to remove it. I had no chance just using the plastic tag so I had to pry it loose. I would not recommend prying the upper side of the battery as shown in the pictures due to the audio control and power button cable running just under the upper edge of the battery.

    I was not aware of this cable and ended up damaging it when the plastic removal tool slipped under the cable when prying. I believe this cable supplies power to the vibrator as well since that's what ended up not working when everything was back in its place. Fortunately this cable can be replaced but it looks like a bit of a hassle but i'll try. Try using the hair dryer before prying too much would be my recommendation. I put a bowl of water in the microwave with a plate on top. Once the plate was mildly hot, I took it out and placed my iphone on it to heat up the adhesive.

    I tried pulling the plastic tab, but nothing would happen. I noticed that there is an ideal prying point on the opposite side of the battery from the plastic tab an inch below the volume buttons. There are no ribbon cables or circuits there, and there is a cutout large enough to fit the plastic pry tool. Pry gently there against the case once the phone is warmed up on the plate and the battery comes out very easily.

    It really seems like that cutout is there just for that reason. The word "pry" should not appear anywhere in the this section as the damage others have experienced witness. LIFT instead with the end of the tool. It would have been helpful if the notes for step 16 prying out the battery had mentioned that the Audio Control and Power Button Cable is fragile and behind the top of the battery!

    I was gently prying out my battery from the top when I tore the power button ribbon that I could not see. This step is the toughest one. My old battery glued on the board stubbornly and refuses to come out. It took me half hour or so to pry it out. It has deformed and way beyond usable state. The key here is to pry from all allowed angles refer to the pictures and video , and pry patiently. Mine starts to come out after prying from the top. When prying the battery off at the first battery position shown in the picture the gap between battery socket the battery itself , a small rounded metal spudger like the one that comes with the iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit is recommended if you break your plastic prying tool like happens to me during this step.

    Just make sure that when prying up, you are not touching either the battery socket nor any other logic board component. I also recommend to use a tool like the iOpener and put it on top of the battery for few minutes to reheat the battery and soften the battery adhesive during this step. I used the plastic tab, but it broke off. I was forced to pry it out, but like I said, it didn't come out easily and the battery was all mangled by the time I pulled it free from the adhesive.

    This guide tells you where to pull and where to be careful, but it still made me very nervous! Just keep working at it if yours is also stubborn. I would suggest using both the clear tab and the plastic opening tool simultaneously to be able to remove the battery. Easy does it on this step. The adhesive is very strong.

    I though my battery wasn't going to come out. But even prying from all three indicated locations does it eventually. I was able to remove the battery after applying the iOpener twice for about 10 minutes. I pulled at the plastic tab and used the plastic opening toll together.


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    The battery lifted while applying permanent strong force. I followed this advice above:

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