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I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws!

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I had to remove it without removing the display. I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here supplied in the iFixit kit. My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1. I removed and replace it without problems. These instructions are for the 6s.

It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery. Note carefully the order that they are removed. My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.

Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order. After that they popped right into place. I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose. Quando devi riattaccare il cavo del digitizer, non premere nel centro del connettore. Premi da un lato e poi dall'altro. Recolor that "pinned" note about not pushing on the center in "RED" if you get a chance. Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order.

I had to remove the EMI shield seven screws , and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one.

When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it. I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

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There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem. I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise.

My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors. The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. The instructions are over here. In fase di rimontaggio, fermati qui se vuoi sostituire l'adesivo attorno ai bordi del display. If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive.

The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive. There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

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Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned. Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all.

When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel.

So start at the top when you put front and back together. When reinstalling, I had to experiment with how tightly to turn the screws, I first turned them all the way in but the home button wouldn't 'click' at all then, so I loosened the left most screw a touch and now it clicks and feel perfect. Not sure which screw is technically the best to adjust. Manca la descrizione delle plastiche da recuperare per essere riportate sul nuovo display. After trying multiple screw settings I came to a somewhat unorthodox solution. I placed a piece of folded paper under the left corner of the metal cover.

Solleva il bordo inferiore della staffa del pulsante home fino a liberare il piccolo piolino sul lato destro. Usa uno spudger per staccare il connettore del pulsante home sollevandolo dal suo zoccolino sul retro del pannello display. Make sure you're not heating it before you've popped the connector from its socket or else the socket might come loose.

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Place 1 on the socket and use the other to disconnect the connector. When I did this step, the home button connecter tore right off at the bend in the thin ribbon. Not sure how - I got through other somewhat delicate steps in this project without damaging anything. Premi delicatamente sul pulsante home dal lato anteriore del display per separare lentamente dal pannello anteriore la guarnizione in gomma del pulsante home. Esercita una pressione costante e dai tempo alla parte di staccarsi.

What happens if the gasket ends up as toast? I had to re-assemble without and hope for the best.

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I think its main function is to keep moisture and dust out. I heated mine with a hair dryer. The remaining steps remove parts that are included with the replacement assembly. Altre 75 persone hanno completato questa guida. I'm currently on ios 9. It still works, but it bothers me that it's cracked, however I don't really want to brick my phone in the process. Do I need to be on 9. Or does it not matter anymore? I'm kinda lost as far as that goes.

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Any help is greatly appreciated. So my home button no longer works at all. Altri service provider potrebbero stabilire prezzi diversi. Tutti i costi sono espressi in euro e sono comprensivi di IVA. Avvia una richiesta di assistenza online oppure chiamaci. Ti invieremo immediatamente una confezione per ritirare il tuo iPhone.

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Puoi quindi organizzare la spedizione a un centro riparazioni Apple nel momento per te più opportuno. Ti restituiremo l'iPhone nel giro di una settimana. Nella maggior parte dei casi, potresti dover inviare l'iPhone a un centro riparazioni Apple. Supporto Apri menu Chiudi menu Community Contatta il supporto.

Riparazione di iPhone Ottieni assistenza e riparazione da esperti certificati Apple. Schermo danneggiato Scopri i prezzi per la riparazione dello schermo e le opzioni di assistenza. Problemi relativi alla batteria o all'alimentazione Consulta i prezzi per la sostituzione della batteria e scopri di più sui problemi di alimentazione.

Consulta i prezzi per altri modelli di iPhone. Invia il dispositivo in riparazione Avvia una richiesta di assistenza online oppure chiamaci. Avvia la tua richiesta di riparazione.