Cambiare tasto accensione iphone s
Contents:I found it took a while to slowly pry the battery out. Take your time and alternate between gently using the plastic tool and pulling on the plastic pull tab that says "for authorized use only" or something like that. It was MUCH easier than disconnecting the entire screen for the process. Rule 1 on electronics repair methodology: I'd disconnect the battery before touching anything else, a slip of the screwdriver or a loose screw could cause a fatal short circuit.
It's no need to remove front panel to change battery. I just skip to Step 10 and successfully changed battery, and it works well. I skipped steps Mon téléphone a pris l'humidité et présente un fond d'écran d'aspect granuleux. Du coup l'éclairage n'est plus uniforme, nuisible pour une bonne lecture de l'écran. J'ai démonté l'écran, une pellicule grasse et collante entre le LCD et la plaque métallique.
J'ai nettoyé à l'alcool. Tout remonter avec la crainte que le téléphone ne fonctionne plus. Le téléphone s'est rallumé, tout fonctionne normalement mais j'ai toujours ses traces sur le fond d'écran. Il faut le changer! This makes the plate kind of springy, and my screwdirver slipped, and the screw popped up, spun in the air, fell between my legs, bounced off my padded chair, and clattered around on the floor.
I searched for an hour, and could not locate it.
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This being the case, I WAS able to provide a substitute fron a bag of iphone 4 screws, and my compass calibrated flawlessly upon power-up. Be warned, the 1. I haven't been able to get it out yet already tried rubber band trick and a few others and am on the verge of giving up. The 00 screwdriver that comes with the set did not do a very good job of catching. Were you ever able to get it out? Mine seemed stripped from the get go, rendering my attempt to troubleshoot my blank screen fruitless.
Rubber band, glue, flat-head all did not work for me. Buying a soldering iron tomorrow to try that. I did the repair without disconnecting the screen. I skipped down to step 13 and carefully held the screen while removing the battery. Adds a small element difficulty, but helps prevent all the issues others are having when reconnecting the screen.
Install the two magnetized screws first. They are easy because the magnetized screws will stick to then end of the screwdriver. They will hold the cable bracket in place. Place the third, non-magnetized, screw on the center of the cable bracket. Take a toothpick and nudge the screw toward the screw hole. The threaded part of the screw the shaft has enough weight that it will fall into the hole, and the head of the screw will be pointed upward. You will then be able to use the screwdriver.
Put a piece of tape on the table sticky side up. Set the screw on the tape head down. The tape trick works well. Another way is to dip the screwdriver in alcohol isopropanol, do NOT use water and put the screw on its tip. It will be held there until the liquid is evaporated, which should be sufficient to put it in place. When putting it back together, I replugged in all three of the ribbon cables and powered on the phone to test before putting everything back together.
All was OK except for the Home button, it had no effect when pressed. I ended up unplugging and replugging the 3 ribbon cables a few times and retrying. I then cleaned the connectors using a can of compressed air, screwed the little silver cover back on and snapped the whole phone back together, hoping everything would be fine. I don't know if the problem was a dirty connector, or if you need to close the phone to make the home button work again.
I recommend wiping the plastic prying tool after lifting the screen off, it gets dirty from the gunk build up and some of that could eventually fall inside the phone. My battery was really stuck, so much that the plastic tab broke when pulling. I followed someones advice to heat the back of the phone with a hair dryer, still wasn't super easy but I managed to get the battery out, only deforming it slightly. The contacts for the home button are on the phone base so the screen needs to be in place for the button to work..
Step are totally unnecessary unless you need to replace a broken screen. All you need is to keep the front panel in a vertical position once the front is open. The battery can be removed without taken out the 3 connectors which by the way the screws are very very tiny and difficult to put back. These are unnecessary steps. Might be a little easier to pry the battery out with the display completely off, but not enough to make it worthwhile IMHO.
I have a small set and can't get one of these out. The instructions say a 1. So as long as you have a you should be set! Invest in and use some colored Sharpie Pens I color the tops of the screws orange and red etc. Then when I go to put them back in there's no doubt as to which screw is the correct size.
Maybe a small amount of loctite. I noticed the P2 screws holding the display down had a small amount on my iPhone 5. I, too, do not see the need to remove the LCD display at all; except, when one is replacing a broken display. The battery is ready for replacement once you had removed its bracket. I found that it wasn't at all necessary to remove the front glass. I did need to use a hair dryer to soften the glue holding the battery, but I simply laid the phone down on the face glass and blew the hot dryer on the back for a couple of minutes at almost point blank range.
Then I simply held the phone open with one hand, making sure the front glass never went back more than about 80 degrees no need to stretch it all the way to 90 degrees , and used my other hand to work the spudger around the battery, making sure not to touch any delicate electronics in the area. The top right corner gave away first and then I worked it down from there and the battery came out pretty easily. The trick is to use the hair dryer for a few minutes beyond the phone being too hot to hold in your hand! The battery of my iPhone 5 was working well but started to inflate pushing the front panel assembly out from the case.
Replacing is faster and easier than on iPhone 5s. Thanks to iFixit for this guides and you guys for your comments. As other people already indicated, steps 13 to 16 are not needed and risky. I asked another person to hold the front panel at 70 degrees while changing the battery.
iPhone 5: ricambio gratis del tasto d'accensione | Webnews
Per assicurare un'installazione corretta, assicuratevi di attaccare i piccoli uncini del supporto, sotto e poi piu in basso verso l'esterno del telefono. My iPhone 5 model don't has this bracket and replacing the earpiece don't fix my problem don't hear anyone. You might check that front camera flex cable. Great Guide, Any idea what else could be wrong if Ive replaced the screen with a working 1 and the phone still has no display?
When you reverse step 7, make sure you clip the little hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone. If you don't, the phone won't snap back together properly. I've misplaced this metal plate AND the three screws and two pentalobe screws.
I think my wife threw out the ziplock I had them in. Any chance you can tell me where to get them? Don't forget to clip this in flush, my phone couldn't get a cell signal when it was slightly out-of-place. Remember to put this plate back such that it's sitting evenly. The side towards the battery some times tends to stick up a bit, this in turn will put pressure on the backplate of the screen.
Open up the phone, remove that retention plate and put it back such that it sits properly! Opened my iPhone 5 etc. When reassembling, I notice the screen doesn't stay clipped into the back tray and is raised a couple of mils. I really wonder about the wisdom, and risk, of removing this upper plate in step 14 - unless I missed it, those three cables are NOT connected to the battery in anyway - and the chances for stuffing up said cables re-assembly are moderate to high!
Much less stress regarding the upper bracket and the three cables while only a bit more stress over releasing the battery from its sticky grip! Anywho, I might have to stand corrected - but next time I'll go for this abreviated method. Just carefully remove the battery and insert the new one. Make sure to read all the comments before doing each step even when you r reassembling.
I confirm the previous post! I think that lots of problem may occur when you reassemble the front panel cables. I also made the mistake of trying to remove the cable bracket. Once again I had to resort to another screwdriver since the included in the battery kit did not work on these. Can I leave the bracket out? Does it have any shielding or antenna function? I agree, it is not necessary to remove this cover or the cables underneath.
I had the battery changed in less than 10 minutes. Durante il riassemblaggio del cellulare, il cavo LCD potrebbe staccarsi dal connettore. Questo potrebbe far apparire delle linee bianche o semplicemente niente quando il telefono sarà riacceso. Il modo migliore per creare un ciclo di alimentazione nel telefono è staccando e riattacando la batteria.
The part itfixit sent only has two cables: And the guide is great! After replacing the screen I was presented with a no image screen but backlight was ok , so I refited the shartered one, same issue, no image, but backlight. Be very careful here, at this point the phone power is live! This is a troublesome step, since the LCD connector is particularly difficult to reconnect, and know that you've gotten it on. And thanks to the note claiming that if it's disconnected, if you might just get a black screen, you're left with having to disassemble the entire unit again, without knowing if it's powered off since you presumably tried to power on.
I had this problem and disassembled and reassembled the entire phone, only to have the problem again. On the second try, I plugged the phone into power, and after a little bit, got the dead battery screen showing. So the problem was that the battery was discharged, not that I'd biffed the LCD connector.
The hint to disconnect the battery was very useful for my successful repair. After rebooting the phone everything was working just fine. Take a good look at that camera loosely sitting there. It is possible that it will be slightly offset when shutting the assembly back into place. This causes it to not properly focus on closeups. If you don't move it around you will probably be okay. Also, look at the display assembly, it has three small locking tabs that can bend easily if not pushed in at the right angle into the iPhone frame.
Be careful not to be too forceful. I am having issues removing the white lines on my screen. I made sure to connect the digitiizer connector was seated all the way and I also power cycled my phone several times. Anyone else having this issue? When I was reassembling this the front facing camera cable was a bit longer than the previous one. I had to kink the ribbon cable a bit to get the connection to line up. Everything seems to be working but I wanted to note that the part might be slightly off spec.
I am very satisfied with the replacement display assembly including FaceTime camera and Home button iFixit sent. It arrived a day early, fit perfectly, and has fixed the color banding, cracked screen, and scratched edges very well. In addition, the home button now has a much crisper "click" to it, more like the new MacBook's keys vs those of an older MacBook Pro.
This step is not needed to remove the battery and complicates the process by having to reconnect the sensors. When I started the phone again, there was a grid pattern and touch was not working consistently. It turns out there were two separate problems. I had this problem too not the oil though. When I first restarted the phone, I had white crosses over the display, and the digitiser didn't work. Hope this info helps others. In the image you can see the camera has lifted out a bit. Mine did this too, because the old screen had levered it out.
To push the camera back into position you need to insert a fine tool behind a small metal spring contact because it catches on the camera's casing otherwise. This little spring is to the left of the metal case, between the camera and ribbon. Pls confirm if the three photos in Step 15 only show removal of 2 of the 3 connectors mentioned in the instruction and colored bullets. I could not tell which was the third one to remove in the three photos. So I keep getting the "white lines on the LCD" bit with no resolution.
I've tried reconnecting the connector like 6 times and power cycling and I get the exact same thing every time? Is it possible that the replacement screen has an issue? May I ask what the 4th little connector is that comes from under your battery and connects to the board mine came undone during repair and won't go back in.
Watch the soft pad between the rear camera enclosing and the top side of the frame, especially when reassembling. After replacing the battery, my camera pictures gradually showed lots of dust spots. I opened the device again and discovered that the pad had been displaced. However, I am not fully sure if that is the reason for the spots.
On reinstall, I can't get the connectors to line up and the replacement screen has 3 connectors where as my busted screen had only 2. The cables on the replacement screen are too short? Is that even possible? Removing the screen cables causes more problems- you may end up with white squares on the top of the screen which seem to expand over time. Also it is very easy to bend little metal legs on the socket when prying the connector. It is very important to make sure the cables are fully seated. When I finish assembling the phone I too had a vertical white stripe on the display.
I disassembled the phone and reconnected the cables very carefully, and also made sure the shield was properly seated. When I turned the phone back on I found a very faint white line, but after doing a power cycle it disappeared to my great relief. Anyone else have this problem?
Also, when the battery was too low and before the display produced vertical lines the display showed half of a low battery symbol:. On reinstalling the front panel assembly, I had a difficult time lining up the digitizer cable. After struggling with it for a while, I noticed that the plastic shoulders of the small mounting bracket at the ends of the pins had become rounded over. After cleaning these up with a razor blade, everything slid together perfectly.
Thanks so much for these guides and all the helpful comments! I have done all these operations 6 times to get back a good displaying. The last was the last: I clicked OK but nothing more. Still black and quiet. I found the part who was deffective: My display was not turning on and my home button was not working I verified this by trying to activate siri which didn't work.
When I replaced the display assembly everything works except for the home button. Since this assembly comes with the button and the ribbon cable, I'm not sure what else can be wrong. I checked the contacts on the phone and I see the little copper 'pins' sticking out. I can't tell if they are making contact since the display has to be closed, but it appears they are lined up correctly. Does anyone have any suggestions or ways to test the contact pins? Could the home button on my replacement be defective? I've already emailed support, but just curious if anyone has any suggestions I could try while waiting to hear back from them.
I can now back up my phone and can probably deal with a broken home button if I need to. I'm having issues where the screen jumps around when you get a finger near it. I'm reading it might be grounding but no idea where any tape could be applied. Replaced the screen twice thinking it was a bad part. Now, I just don't know. My front camera does not work. I took apart and ensured the connection several, several , several times Tira la linguetta sporgente in plastica trasparente per staccare la batteria dall'adesivo che la fissa alla iPhone.
Se hai problemi nello staccare la batteria, usa un iOpener o un asciugacapelli per riscaldare il case posteriore dell'iPhone e ammorbidire l'adesivo. Se la linguetta si rompe prima di aver liberato la batteria, segui i passi successivi. The Guide misses the Point, where the Battery is disconnected, between steps 12 and 13 German version.
You will see two little white gums strips with black tap on bottom. You have to pull up those two strip so battery will come out very easily. After struggling for awhile, I followed the hair-dryer tip and prying in the empty space on the case side of the battery just below the volume buttons as suggested in one of tips in step Don't understand the advice in the video about the only safe places to pry.
They completely contradict step 19! Agreed on the note about the contradiction. Didn't understand that either, but makes more sense to pry along the outside of the case where you're less likely to damage any internal components. That tab broke pretty easy on me. Seems like I am taking a lot apart to get to the lightning connector. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! I was very surprised by how much heat I needed to apply to loosen the glue. I used a blow dryer and then heated up a rice-filled pillow-thing I use for sore muscles.
I put that inside a plastic bag to avoid the moisture and pried while phone sat on that. It was hotter than I would normally make it for muscles! But that did the trick. Still had to pry pretty hard and it finally let go with a bit of a snap. I just pried with a spudger at the open space along the left side of the battery, about mid-way up.
I found this step to be the hardest part of the repair. A hair dryer on the back of the phone worked best. I broke the plastic tab right away and then used the black spudger along the outside to gently pry, stopping repeatedly to reheat the back of the phone. The battery finally released with a cracking sound. When I repeated this process on my second iPhone, I used more heat and worked more slowly and had better results — in fact the plastic tab didn't even break.
This is a great guide; thank you ifixit! Use heat right from the beginning. I used a hair dryer or heat gun. Heat the body of the phone under the battery for 2 -3 minutes. Then carefully and steadily pull back on the tab. Apply consistent even force. The battery will pop out to the left and the tab that you pulled on should stay with the phone for next time. Se si rompe la linguetta e la batteria rimane attaccata al case posteriore, prepara un iOpener oppure usa un asciugacapelli per riscaldare il case posteriore direttamente sotto la batteria.
Usa l'attrezzo di plastica per far leva dolcemente sulla batteria ma solo sul bordo esterno del telefono. Tira con delicatezza e in modo costante per evitare di deformare la batteria. Non far leva sulla parte alta della batteria, perché rischieresti di strappare i cavi di controllo del volume. Just wanted to add to these comments, the clear plastic tab says Authorized Service Provider Only on it is the way to go. You will want to pull with a constant force, as the adhesive is very strong, but it starts fairly easily, and comes up evenly-- you'll be able to see the glue releasing as you pull.
Depending on exactly where your battery is glued, you will or you won't have enough room for the plastic opening tool. I didn't and had to leverage off the other side. Unlike the front cover which required surprisingly little force to remove it almost ripped the flex cords joining the front and the back , the battery required superhuman strength to remove, destroying the two spodgers parts yet to be found they flew off with such force and deforming the battery which personally I would have no use for reusing in any case.
Reading other comments of how applying too much force caused breaking of components I was too timid and the battery removal process was very time consuming. I recommend watching the video in the battery replacement guide. I was able to see how much force was being applied to remove the battery. I found that the opposite end of the plastic removal tool was bitting into my hand, which was more sensitive to the required pressure than that applied to the components. The adhesive was quite strong and I used the point end of a spudger to gradually pry up the battery where it was most stuck at the bottom right.
As useful as the comment about using the plastic tab was, mine was slightly cut by the edge of a flat cable, it split and the tab came off, making prying the battery necessary. Being mindful of the balance of force is what makes the removal successful. I can confirm with con mar 4. The adhesive was pretty firmly holding my battery down. So I used a metal screwdriver to help leverage the battery out from the top of the battery.
Not knowing that the ribbon for the volume button and switch from the left side of the phone were under there. I severed the ribbon and now those buttons don't work anymore. But I was able to replace the battery and everything else works fine. I just have to learn how to live without those buttons anymore There is nothing you can really hurt on the left middle side either so I recommend this way if your plastic tab does not work to pull the battery up. I couldn't pull the battery out after pulling on that tab for over 10 minutes.
I used a knife on the left side where it seemed nothing was and luckily the battery slid right out no problem. Try heating the phone at the back where the battery is with a heat gun or hair dryer what I used and then pull the tab, and if you still can't get the battery to start coming of give it a little nudge with a prying tool at the top. The battery was really glued down tight, and pulling the plastic tab eventually ripped the tab off and I could no longer use it.
After 15 minutes of gently lifting with the plastic opening tool and getting nowhere, I followed the suggestion about using a hair dryer to soften the glue. I blew heat on the back of the phone where the battery is for about 30 seconds, and then used the plastic tool on the side of the phone with the volume buttons, and it lifted out with very little resistance. I want to stress that it was not a ton of heat--I held the phone in my hand while using the hair dryer, and it was hot on my hand but never so hot that it burned me.
The point isn't to cook the phone, just to warm up the glue so it gives a little. Well, the battery was really giving me problems when trying to remove it. I had no chance just using the plastic tag so I had to pry it loose. I would not recommend prying the upper side of the battery as shown in the pictures due to the audio control and power button cable running just under the upper edge of the battery. I was not aware of this cable and ended up damaging it when the plastic removal tool slipped under the cable when prying.
I believe this cable supplies power to the vibrator as well since that's what ended up not working when everything was back in its place. Fortunately this cable can be replaced but it looks like a bit of a hassle but i'll try. Try using the hair dryer before prying too much would be my recommendation.
I put a bowl of water in the microwave with a plate on top. Once the plate was mildly hot, I took it out and placed my iphone on it to heat up the adhesive. I tried pulling the plastic tab, but nothing would happen. I noticed that there is an ideal prying point on the opposite side of the battery from the plastic tab an inch below the volume buttons. There are no ribbon cables or circuits there, and there is a cutout large enough to fit the plastic pry tool.
Pry gently there against the case once the phone is warmed up on the plate and the battery comes out very easily. It really seems like that cutout is there just for that reason. The word "pry" should not appear anywhere in the this section as the damage others have experienced witness. LIFT instead with the end of the tool. It would have been helpful if the notes for step 16 prying out the battery had mentioned that the Audio Control and Power Button Cable is fragile and behind the top of the battery! I was gently prying out my battery from the top when I tore the power button ribbon that I could not see.
This step is the toughest one. My old battery glued on the board stubbornly and refuses to come out. It took me half hour or so to pry it out. It has deformed and way beyond usable state. The key here is to pry from all allowed angles refer to the pictures and video , and pry patiently.
Mine starts to come out after prying from the top. When prying the battery off at the first battery position shown in the picture the gap between battery socket the battery itself , a small rounded metal spudger like the one that comes with the iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit is recommended if you break your plastic prying tool like happens to me during this step.
Just make sure that when prying up, you are not touching either the battery socket nor any other logic board component. I also recommend to use a tool like the iOpener and put it on top of the battery for few minutes to reheat the battery and soften the battery adhesive during this step. I used the plastic tab, but it broke off. I was forced to pry it out, but like I said, it didn't come out easily and the battery was all mangled by the time I pulled it free from the adhesive. This guide tells you where to pull and where to be careful, but it still made me very nervous!
Just keep working at it if yours is also stubborn. I would suggest using both the clear tab and the plastic opening tool simultaneously to be able to remove the battery. Easy does it on this step. The adhesive is very strong. I though my battery wasn't going to come out. But even prying from all three indicated locations does it eventually. I was able to remove the battery after applying the iOpener twice for about 10 minutes.
I pulled at the plastic tab and used the plastic opening toll together. The battery lifted while applying permanent strong force. I followed this advice above: I did not have to use any other prying point. The battery was fixed with one drop of glues and with tape sticky on both sides.
In fase di rimontaggio, assicurati che la batteria sia fermamente appoggiata al case posteriore.
iPhone 5: programma di sostituzione gratuita tasto standby/accensione
In questo modi si eviterà ogni danno agli altri componenti nel rimontare il pannello anteriore.. Esegui un hard reset dopo il rimontaggio. Questo evita diversi inconvenienti e semplifica la risoluzione dei problemi. I have removed the battery in many iphone 5 phones to repair other issues and never had a problem with reusing the battery. Hello from Cyprus there Anyway i listen the sound when the phone open or change Any help to get reed of it? I can't recommend changing the battery, I did everything as shown but my iPhone doesn't work anymore.
If I connect it to itunes it wants it to restore and when I do that. It sets itself back in recovery mode. I did not break anything and used only plastic tools to remove the parts. Even after I put the old battery back in it still shows the "connect to iTunes". Hi, I thought that when I prised the battery out, I'd knocked 2 chips off the logic board, chances are this is what's happened to you too They need to change this tutorial to use the plastic tab to remove the battery as I've seen several people with this issue. The only way to fix this is to get 2 jumpers soldered onto the logic board.
Any luck finding a solution to this? I replaced my battery and the repair went relatively smoothly Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Don't completely peel away the plastic from the base of the phone.
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The plastic has a mechanical but not electrical purpose and should not be removed. The step directions make it seem that you can peel away the plastic, but don't do that. Peel and pry the battery out but leave the plastic in place. I made this mistake and Apple wouldn't repair my iPhone because the plastic was missing. The guy said that the plastic holds the circuitry in place and away from the battery.
Do not remove the plastic. My iphone 5 keeps switching from vibrate to ring randomly on its own. Do you think this would solve the problem". Well, I followed all the instructions I followed all the instructions and when I put it back together, all I get are white lines on the screen. After replacing my battery on iPhone 5, my GPS was shotty and couldn't pinpoint my exact location. Opened it back up and realized that that longer thiner cable running the length of the battery on the circuit board side wasn't clipped in its spot.
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Be careful to make sure your replacement battery gets put in the case seated at the bottom, if not when you close up the front facing camera will be on the battery and if you force it not realizing you will damage the front camera. The first time I put the phone back together, I turned it on but had a black screen. I took it back apart and put it back together again, same thing. I thought that I must had torn something but kept tinkering with it. I discovered that some of the foam adhesive strip that goes on top of one of the wiring harnesses that snaps the screen back to the phone had come off and was actually on the receiving side of the wiring connector bracket probably not using proper terms here.
I used the plastic tool that came with the kit and removed it I was careful not to touch with my fingers for fear or oil getting on the harness. Tried again still nothing.. I thought I had heard it click before, but I really looked at this time and realized I had to turn it slightly inward to get it perfectly straight, and then it clicked.
Hope this helps someone. I have done everything correct, but I have 2 problems, the power button and the home button is not working anymore. The recovery mode problem as ive found so far is unfixable apple geeks said its toast as well as att. Ive tryed redsn0w and tinyumbrella to kick it out of recovery mode and it does but restarts right back into it.
Itunes fails to update or restore. This is a significant risk to be sure, i had no problems changing the battery no clips broken no unnecessary prying and its well powered brick now. I thought I'd done something wrong because my phone would not turn on I finally charged it overnight and then did a hard restart holding the power button and home button at the same time and it worked! I have no experience doing this sort of thing and it was a little intimidating, but the video really helped, and it was manageable I thought I did everything correctly but my phone didn't power on as I thought it should.
I went back and double checked that everything was connected correctly which I hope it is and I didn't damage anything in the process I figure maybe the battery has to charge but usually once it plugs in after a few minutes it shows that its charging and in this case it is not charging. Also, I received a liberation kit with a small piece on it. Can you tell what this is for? Tab broke pretty easy and a hair dryer did nothing. I put a plat in the microwave with a large bowl of water under it.
Heated it till I could barely touch it and then laid the phone on it. Make sure the plate is big enough for the whole back of the phone to touch it. Leave it on a few minutes and the phone should get pretty hot but still touchable. Patience is a huge virtue on this step.
I can't get the new battery connector to snap into the port. This doesn't seem to be mentioned as a problem step for other people. When you install the new battery, if the compartment is a bit larger than the battery, push the battery over to the side wall and leave about 1mm space between the battery and the electronics. This will give you more room to place the battery cable with the proper twist. By the way, it's easier if you first plug the battery connector into the board on the phone and THEN position the battery into the battery compartment.
This way you'll have the greatest degree of freedom to position the connector for proper insertion. Have followed all instructions and was careful and I think everything is intact but on trying to charge am not getting anything. Will try leaving it plugged in to charge overnight as per someone's suggestion above.
Usare la punta di uno spudger per fare leva sul cavo connettore e portarlo su sulla logic board, un poco sopra allo speaker. The dock connector flex cable can be slid under the board wihtout removing it. I just did it myself without a problem. Agreed - steps can be skipped if one is just replacing the speaker. I completed mine today with these very helpful pictures and descriptions. I also think you can probably skip removing the battery altogether - I removed it just to be safe, but do not think it was necessary.
That said, removing the battery gave me more room to work with or seemed to, at least. For replacing the dock connector, there is no need to remove the logic board! Just skip the corresponding steps. Removing the battery or disconnecting the display is strictly speaking not necessary either. However, I would strongly recommend to do so for convenience.
This tear down and these comments were my lesson to read ahead here. My phone has been in pieces because I do not have the finger to get the antenna cable back on. Rimuovere le due seguenti viti che fissano il supporto superiore della logic board al corpo del cellulare. State attenti a non rompere la piccola linguetta di messa a terra vicino alla parte posteriore della telecamera.
Nei modelli piu moderni il supporto potrebbe essere fissato alla telecamera e non poter essere estratto completamente. Se debe retirar con cuidado , para luego utilizar la misma platina en la nueva camara de reemplazo. Je fajn, ze tu pises vo svojej reci, tak isto ako ja. Rozumiet ti bude presne tolko ludi co mne, tak nabuduce tu pis v anglictine a neotravuj ostatnych svojou domorodou skomoleninou. My phone had the bracket attached to the camera and snapped off. When I put everything back together my bottom mic stopped working.
Could this top logic board bracket not being attached anymore cause this? What if I broke the tiny grounding tab next to the rear camera that he warns against? Is it possible to find this replacement part? Second Connector - From the top right corner of the connector lift straight up. It will go to the left. Third Connector - Hold the second cable back and again lift from the top right corner of the connector and it will go to the left. Strangely, after reassembling the device I cannot find any malfunction. I wonder what the connector is for…. Yes you have to remove battery first otherwise it may cause a short circuit sometimes.
What exactly do wedisconnect? This is not adishnetwork? I have a problem. What is this used for? I broke the one at the left because the screw was impossible to remove I was unable to remove the screw on the left. Consequently, I ended up tearing the cable right where it is attached to the left screw, but as far as I can tell, everything on my iPhone is working properly.
Whey did we take these screws out? Removal doesn't seem a pre-requisite for any other steps. In trying to put the phone back together, I can't get these screws back in - they don't seem to grab. But I also have this miscellaneous part that I don't know where it came from - it has one hole in the center and looks a bit like a wing. Anyone know what this is and whether it has anything to do with these two screws? OK, I got the screws back in, but it still looks like an unnecessary step. And I still have that little wing thing.
But the phone is working and charging! These screws secure some thin cables with contacts on the end of the logic board. Some here states they are hard to remove. I used one of my Philips screw drivers. I'm not sure what type, but it removed the two screws easily. In the years that have past, doing repairs, I have got a lot of different equipments.
Just be sure to use exatly the right screwdriver. Rimuovi la singola vite Phillips da 1,2 mm rimasta nel supporto della zona centrale della logic board. When putting this back together, you may find this bracket gets in the way of clipping the battery connection back on. If you do, losses the screw and swivel the bracket out of the way. When I did this the ribbon cable beneath the plate stuck to the plate, and this guide makes no mention of this cable at all.
Be aware that it has to be re routed and re attached to its positions on the logic board or your phone will not work, as i looks like some kind of RF cable. That cable is for sim networks. You have to remove very carefully. Usare uno spudger per fare leva sul cavo connettore del Lightning connector e staccarlo dalla logic board. Premere il bottone per liberare la carta SIM sul lato destro dell'iPhone con il "SIM card eject tool" o con una spilla da balia piegata.
Queste viti sono dello stesso tipo di quelle Phillips, ma noi vi consigliamo di usare un cacciavite a punta piatta da 2. Assicurati di rimettere questo distanziale filettato nella sua posizione originale nella parte superiore della logic board. Un elemento magnetizzato potrebbe interferire con la bussola elettronica. Suggerimento per il riassemblaggio: Before continuing to step 24, ifixit forgot one step!! Using a flathead driver for the standoff screws is actually very irritating. Funny thing, if you just use the pentalobe driver you used to take out the first two screws for the iphone, the standoff screws come out very easily I think this was by design, since the pentalobe driver fits snuggly into the opening of the standoff screw.
It is not equivalent to the remaining two 2. It should be kept apart and put back in its exact place. If you happen to mix it with the other 2 screws, it is easy to differentiate: The center hole is threaded to receive other screws. If you look at the previous steps, you can see the screws that screw into each one. Without that tool, the best alternate is a flathead. I would avoid using a bit in the center hole, since it may damage the threads.
The flate heat second from the biggest fit in the slots good enough. The little bastards are on there tight!! I used a 2mm flathead, but I had to be very carefully because it may be easy to slip. A little sad that I don't have any flathead tips and missed that they were needed!
Anyhow to make this standout even more?
I have the iOpener with a decent assortment of tips so my overconfidence made me miss the requirement. My spudger tip broke-off inside one of the standoff screws, so after trying a few things to clear the plastic tip manually, I just took the standoff screw out and held it up to open flame. The tiny bit of plastic burned-away in no time at all and after cooling the standoff screw down, it worked just fine again: Non provate ancora a rimuovere completamente la logic board dal pannello posteriore poiché vi é ancora un cavo connesso alla parte inferiore di quest'ultima.
Il flash surround è attaccato alla flash unit ed al pannello posteriore. Se resta sul pannello posteriore rimuovetelo con delle pinzette e rimontatelo sulla flash unit. I second John Mihalko's comment - when reassembling the logic board in the case, make sure the button assembly cable from step 18 is not under the logic board. It was a bit annoying to almost get to the end of this repair only to find I had to go back and take the logic board back out again.
I've had to open this phone twice at distant intervals and I made this mistake both times. This should be included as a note, because it seems to be a common error. I thought I already remove it but it turns out I only remove the top screw. There's actually "another" screw in the "same" position, which is in disguise because it looks like a hole. It needs a rather small flat screw head to remove. I kept pulling the circuit board out but couldn't because I didn't know it. Lors du remontage il faut être vigilant à ce que le câble d'interconnexion inférieur ET!!! Usate l'estremità di uno spudger per fare leva sul cavo dell'antenna del Wi-Fi e sollevarlo dalla parte inferiore della logic board.
I didn't bother taking the antenna cable off the board. I just had it flexed back and worked on removing the camera with the cable still on. It's only two screws and one connector to swap the camera out. Found it a little fiddly disconnecting it so if you have trouble just leave it on and work with the slack. Mentre la vostra logic board é fuori dal telefono tenetela messa a terra per evitare danni al circuito.
I believe there are three washers on the case side of the logic board that can come loose at this point. A note when putting it back together make sure that the antenna cable does not get stuck under the logic board. Guys, there is no need to remove the logic board at all.
Just disconnect battery, remove loudspeaker, and remove charge port. Usa la punta della spatola per rimuovere il paraurti di gomma dal basso della pulsante dell'alimentazione. You do not need to remove the rubber bumper. I did the replacement without removing it and that works just fine.
I agree with Johnny on Step 31, removing the rubber bumper is pointless as once its removed you end up with a floating rubber bumper piece OR to replace it. The rubber bumper pretty sure its just foam anyways is fine staying attached as it is. Other than that the guide is spot on!
Rimuovi i seguenti viti del supporto metallico tra il flash posteriore e la finestra della camera:. If you only take off the top screw on this bracket and just loosen the bottom one you can spin the bracket out of the way. This helps you when putting everything back together. YOu don't have to align this little bracket while holding a screw and screwdriver. I had an interesting discovery when I got to this step. Mine was more of a circle. It's like it was stripped already. My magnifying glass is not great so I couldn't see if it was stripped or if a different bit was needed. I ended up leaving it in and just swinging the bracket to the right just as the5dunhams suggested.
Thankfully it worked and I was able to continue on my 4. It's weird using my power button since it's been broken for a couple years. Usa la punta della spatola per svoltare il supporto metallico chi tiene la pulsante dell'alimentazione dalla testa della faccia posteriore. Premi la pulsante dell'alimentazione nella faccia posteriore dal'esterno del telefono con la punta della spatola.
There's a metal 'hinge' on one side of the power button. When reseating this has to face upwards side of the screen else it wont click. The power button is glued on the right side to a piece of foam. Re-assembly should be easier and quicker this way. I found these instructions on the internet, and it worked for me - many replacement housing seem to lack that pin. I accidentally got the black power button instead of the white one for my white iPhone 5 and the button doesn't click like it should.
I wonder if there is a difference in size of the white button vs. I only replaced the button, but I may replace the cable to see if that makes a difference.
Come spegnere iPhone senza tasto
The button now is not working as well as it did first. I replaced the cable with the power switch AND put everything in a replacement housing. My power button clicks and works fine, but it a bit loose, so as if there is about 0. In the original state from the factory, the button sits tight. I successfully replace my power button, and it worked fine for about two weeks, but the responsiveness of the button has gradually become worse.
I'm wondering if this means I need to also replace the cable. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Altre persone hanno completato questa guida. Tobias Isakeit ci sta aiutando ad aggiustare il mondo! Any use of the material, including reproduction in whole or in part requires permission. Tutorial gentilmente fornito da www. Come sostituire il tasto power di un iPhone 4S. Riconscerle e sapere sempre che vite va in ogni posto, farà di te un riparatore di successo che non combina danni.
Per questo c'è iPhoneMagnet, costa pochissimo e ti salverà la vita. Clicca qui per metterlo nel carrello Se hai dubbi, prendilo. E' nel tuo interesse, più che nel nostro! In questo caso stacca la batteria dal lato destro con l'attrezzo apposito come un iSesamo. Fai attenzione a non rompere la batteria!! Se la rompi assicurati di smaltirla correttamente quando la butti via!.
Il flat del tasto di accensione 2 si trova sotto il jack 1. L' iPhone deve essere spento. Non resta che riavviare e vedere se riceve il segnale.